Friday morning, November 15th, we were to catch
our ship from Civitavecchia, the port city for Rome. Still disoriented, I had no idea what time it
really was…only that the sun was shining and Steve was standing, fully dressed
and holding coffee, by the side of the bed quietly calling my name. (Have I mentioned that this is the sweetest
man on earth?)
Our driver was coming at 11:30 and we had a precious couple
of hours to see the Pantheon. He was
going, with or without me. But he had
also bought me a couple of pastries to sweeten the deal. I was up and showered in no time and we set
out on a bright fall morning.
The streets were bustling – it was a work day for people
after all. Have I mentioned how completely
thin and chic most Italians are? And
they do have the most gorgeous shoes and boots.
We dodged scooters and walked as quickly as we could for the couple of
miles or so.
I was in my mid-twenties the first time I came up from a
subway in New York City and caught my breath in amazement and excitement. I haven’t had that sensation since, until
that morning. We came out of one of the
narrow alley streets and there it stood – a magnificent antiquity in the clearing
of a busy neighborhood.
Before this trip, Steve and I had no idea of the difference
between the Pantheon, Parthenon or Acropolis.
We had studied them in school; and we had studied some (via YouTube)
before we left. I will never again
forget the difference.
The Pantheon was commissioned by Marcus Agrippa as a temple
to all the gods of ancient Rome, and rebuilt by Emperor Hadrian in about 126
AD. It is one of the best-preserved of
all Roman buildings. It has been in continuous use throughout its history, and
since the 7th century, the Pantheon has been used as a Roman Catholic church
dedicated to "St. Mary and the Martyrs.”
The square in front of the
Pantheon is called Piazza della Rotonda.
It is said that if you plan to visit antiquities, the
Pantheon is what you should see first because it is the best preserved. The great dome has a hole in the center and
the center of the floor has holes for a drain.
The area is roped off so that when it rains the water can run out. The dome would collapse without the hole.
The columns are enormous and beautiful. They are in the Corinthian style (the most
ornate). As we walked into the building,
we were amazed by the art and sculpture.
I felt the need to pray and the conflict of standing in a building that
was built for gods and now used as a center for worship of the one true God. I sat down on one of the pews and tried to
absorb the history I was seeing. It was
the first of many instances of my own inadequacy to fully “feel” what I was
experiencing.